Beyond the Pasta

Travel Experiences in Italy & the journey toward publication of my first book: "Beyond the Pasta: Recipes, Language, and Life with an Italian Family" by Mark Donovan Leslie  
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la parola del giorno

 

La Parola del Giorno~ The Word of the Day~

STUPEFACENTE~

This is one of my favorite Italian words, if only for the fact that it is one of the few words I know to express astonishment. The word is pronounced “stoop-ay-fah-CHEN-tay” and you can no doubt see that it is similar to the English word “stupefying,” so you already know how to translate it.

Lately, “stupefacente” has been swimming around in my head. I find myself thinking it during rehearsals as I listen to the singers rehearse Verdi’s AIDA at Opera Birmingham (www.operabirmingham.org). There are moments when the Italian music and lyrics are so luscious, even when played on a clavinova and sung sotto voce (quietly), that I find myself caught up in the “amazing” work being rehearsed. I also think “stupefacente” when I consider that in two weeks we will be adding dogs, ponies, a camel and an elephant into the mix—beyond the 80 performers!

The February House Beautiful article (http://www.housebeautiful.com/decorating/home-makeovers/remodeling-old-southern-home) about our home and the loads of blog chat across the blogosphere about our kitchen has me thinking “STUPEFACENTE,” too. Thanks to everyone for discovering and checking out this blog in response to the magazine article. Stephen Drucker, from House Beautiful, even noticed all the response our article was getting.

I first learned today's "Word of the Day" while in Viterbo, during my first cooking lesson with Nonna. She was demonstrating how to de-bone a chicken without cutting the chicken into pieces. She was de-boning it whole and stuffing it with a mixture of ground veal and pork.

I asked Alessandra, “Come si dice “amazing” in italiano?” as I watched Nonna cleanly remove a thighbone via the center cavity of the chicken.

 “Stupefacente, Marco.”

 "Stupefacente, indeed.” (*)

Each syllable seemed to wrap itself around my awe of Nonna’s knife work. “Amazing” sounded good, but “stoop-ay-fah-CHEN-tay” really seemed to imply an active astonishment. Maybe it was the stress on the syllable “CHEN.”

Try it yourself.

Say “amazing” giving it all the wonderment you can—“a-MAZ-ing.”

Now say “stoop-ay-fah-CHEN-tay”— really hitting the “CHEN.”

Try it again: give it an Italian flair by holding the thumb and forefinger of your right hand together, shaking your wrist, as you stress that syllable: “stoop-ay-fah-CHEN (shake, shake, shake)-tay!”

Va bene, no?

There is your Word of the Day and your Italian lesson all rolled into one.

I think my next posting is going to be about Venice, unless the elephant gives me problems. If so, the next La Parola del Giorno might just be my first Word of the Day~ DISASTRO! (http://www.mark-leslie.net/la-parola-di-giorno-the-word-of-the-day)

Ciao e a presto~

Mark

(* The whole story of Nonna teaching me how to de-bone a chicken is in one of the chapters of my manuscript “BEYOND THE PASTA: 28 Days of Recipes, Language, and Life with an Italian Family.” I still have letters out to literary agents and hope to post some good news soon about the manuscript moving closer to becoming published.)

(**THE PHOTO: Villa Pisani just north of Padova (Padua, for us English-speaking people). This place is truly “STUPEFACENTE!!!!! Check it out at: http://www.villapisani.beniculturali.it/en/index.php . We spent four hours there and were awe-struck the entire time.)

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La Parola del Giorno--The Word of the Day--via France, Venice, and Oxford

Cazzo~

In high school I studied French—well, it would be closer to the truth to say that I sat in a class for three years where the teacher and two other students spoke French, while the rest of us were just thankful to not have to take Spanish from the hateful Seńora.

Regardless of one’s age, when learning a new language, one of the first tasks is to try to figure out how to cuss in that language. Remember how titillating the song lyric “Voulez-vous coucher avec moi, ce soir?” was in the 1970s? Instantly millions of Americans knew how to speak some sexy and slightly naughty French, or so they thought.

I remember the day in the first week of French class my freshman year when someone secretly shared the word merde—sh*t—with the rest of us in class. How we howled with laughter in the hallway going to our next classes. For the next month, we tried to incorporate our new foreign word into our everyday conversations. If a friend did something stupid, he was a merdehead. Drop something out of your locker and you could proudly disclaim “MERDE!” in front of everyone—they didn’t know what you meant and, since the word was foreign, technically, you weren’t swearing. Not know an answer in algebra and you instantly had merde for brains. There was no cleverness in our hunt for the perfect use of merde. The most nonsensical usage would send us all into hysterics for hours.

In America, we seem to have different levels of appropriateness for cuss, curse, or swear words. As children we all learn how to cuss—politely. Words like “shoot” “darn it” “crud” “gosh” “fudge” are all used in place of the swear words adults use. When I was little, the word “crap” would cause a flurry of condemnation from my parents. It was considered a cuss word. I was mortified when I came home year from college on Spring Break one year and heard my sister, who was 10, use “crap” at the dinner table in conversation. When she said it I flinched, because I knew she was going to get scolded, at the very least. But I flinched for nothing, no one else at the table reacted to it. My father kept eating, my mother filled her glass with pop, and my other sister and brother did not snicker at a “dirty” word being used at the table. It was as if she had used the word “daisies.” I was pissed—where had my family’s decency gone?

As we get older, the swear words we used as children get replaced by the adult versions. These adult versions are more acceptable in a wider, more public setting, but there are still limitations on when and where they should be used. It would be inappropriate to say to your grandmother at the table during Sunday lunch, “Shit grandma, you are one funny woman.” That same comment made to a friend over a beer at the local pub on a Saturday night would hardly make anyone blink twice. The slang names for certain body parts, both male and female, are included in this group, too. Naturally, there are words that one should never use, regardless of the situation and people present. The “c” word and the “f” bomb fall into this category.

Today’s “Word of the Day” is CAZZO. It is an Italian swear word—a not so very polite Italian swear word. It is a word that I learned from an American friend of mine before I traveled to Italy for the first time in 2001. Cazzo falls into the “male body part” category, but it also falls into the “I just spilled a glass of milk all over my desk” category. This is not something typical of an American swear word. My mother might say “s**t” under her breath if she screwed something up, but she would never say “c**k.” Naturally, it makes no sense in English and I have yet to figure out how it works as it does in Italian.

Several weeks ago, while we were in Venice, we stopped by a Pasticceria—a pastry shop—to purchase several special and very Venetian desserts to take with us to Viterbo and give to the family. Usually we arrive with flowers, but this time I thought it would be more appropriate to arrive with some Venetian treats, since Nonna is from that part of Italy.

We entered the shop and I waited for the woman working there to finish with other customers before trying to be cute and use my infantile Italian to show her how charming I was by attempting her native tongue. Just as I started, another customer entered the shop. Knowing that my transaction was going to take some time, given that I speak slowly and that I wanted an assortment of pastries, I waved the pastry woman on to help her newly arrived customer. The customer was French and this seemed to irritate the woman. As she begrudgingly helped the French customer, more French citizens arrived to ask her questions about products, pointing to objects and indicating that they wanted to “look” at the item with their hands and not only with their eyes. With every interaction and transaction, the woman would say “cazzo.” And she was not trying too hard to conceal her frustration with France—she was speaking in full voice.

Finally, the traffic in and out of the shop ceased and it was again my turn at bat with the woman. In Italian, I explained to her that I going to be traveling to see my grandmother in Viterbo and that I wanted to bring her some pastries from Venice because she grew up in this area. I then apologized—Mi dispiace, il mio Italiano non è buono—for how bad my Italian was. Usually, this garnishes a complimentary response from my Italian counterpart—No, no, no. Il tuo Italiano è molto buono. I usually thank them for thinking that my Italian is really good and then I continue to speak and slaughter their native tongue right in front of their smiling and encouraging faces. I did not get the usual response from this Italian woman.

“Don’t worry. In Italian schools, they don’t teach Italian either. My son is taught English as a primary language and either French or Spanish as a secondary language. Cazzo! It is true. They expect our kids to learn Italian at home. Cazzo!” she replied, in an unending tirade about Italian schools.

I couldn’t believe that she was cursing in front of me. I had never heard an Italian swear in conversation with me. When I lived with the family, they never swore—or, at least, I never figured out that they were if it indeed was happening. Nonna would drop something on the floor and instead of saying “damn,” she would just huff and call herself an idiot. I never learned any choice expletives while staying there.

“Cazzo!”—Another French tourist had walked in, and the woman tiredly swore and left me to help a guy buy a bottle of water.

She returned shortly and muttered something to me, which was spoken too fast for me to understand, and then said, “Va' fa'n culo.” WOW! That expression is quite vulgar (it tells a person to go "f" himself) and I have no idea why she said that of the Frenchman as he left. As we continued to select pastry, she continued to complain about the linguistic deficiencies of her son’s school—all the while, peppering her conversation with “cazzo.” Eventually, we left with two bags of pastries, burning ears, and a great story.

The next day we traveled to Viterbo to see the family and I plated the pastries, serving them after we finished our meal—Nonna made short ribs in a tomato sauce. The sauce was served with penne pasta and the ribs were served separately as the second course.

There were “ohs” and ahs” as we were thanked for being so kind in bringing treats. Well, I immediately had to tell them the story of the “Cazzo donna”—c**k lady. The table erupted when I said that and they wanted to know more.

I explained the process, and conversation, of buying the pastries. They howled with laughter every time the woman swore in the story. When I got to the “va' fa'n culo”  moment, Marianna (Alessandra’s 29-year-old daughter) jumped in the conversation and said, “Oh Mark, you should have told her, “I see you were educated at Oxford.” I choked on my pastry as we all laughed with Marianna. She is very clever, as is the entire family for that matter.

Merde, I love Italy!

Mark

**The photo is of a statue in the exhibit of Etrsucan and Roman artifacts at the Vatican museums. The statue is complete above the navel, but I thought this angle was more apropos.

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You say goodbye and I say hello...

La parola del giorno: “Ciao”~

“Ciao,” I said, walking in the front door as Richard was walking out.

“Ciao, ciao, ciao…” and he was down the sidewalk, into the car, and off to the lake for a photo shoot.

I had arrived back at the house in Alabama just in time to catch Richard leaving town for work for three days. (www.mcalpinetankersley.com) Sometimes, life is too busy for our own good.  Luckily, we are leaving for Italy in a couple of days, so we will be in the same place for those two weeks, at least.

“Ciao” is the Italian word for both “hello” and “good-bye.” In English, this famous Italian expression is pronounced “chow,” which is similar to, but not exactly, how the Italians pronounce the word. To appreciate how the Italian language requires you to pronounce every letter in a word—except for “h,” which is silent—let’s deconstruct it slowly in your first Italian lesson:

“Ci” is pronounced “chee.” In Italian, the letter “i” has the English long “e” sound, as in the word “key.” Also, the letter “c” when followed by an “i” has the “ch” sound, as in “church.” Put the two together and you get “chee.”

The letter “a” in Italian is pronounced “ah”—as in the sound you make as you lower yourself into a warm bubble-bath, after a long, hard day at work, and release the day’s tension by saying, “ahhhhhhh.”

The Italian “o” has a hard to describe sound. It is very similar to the English “o,” but not quite. The only image that comes to mind is the short, grunted, rounded “oh” sound a gorilla makes when trying to ward off intruders. How do I know this sound? Too many years of Sunday nights spent on the floor watching Mutual of Omaha’s “Wild Kingdom” (http://www.wildkingdom.com/nostalgia/) in anticipation of Tinkerbell coming on the screen and tossing her fairy dust around. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walt_Disney_anthology_television_series ) I am sure that explains a lot. To keep it simple, let’s just say it is the same as our letter “o.”

Slowly put those all together and you get: “chee-ah-o.” When spoken at speed, the sounds slide together and merge into what we Americans hear as “chow,” but in Italy there is a slight lingering on the “i” sound…like a subtle little pinch of salt that perks up a dish’s flavor.

My mom went with me on my first trip to Italy in September 2001—yes, we were in Florence on 9/11, but that is a different story. Before we left, my mom was nervous about traveling to a country where English was not the first language. I told her she only needed to learn how to say two things: “Thank you” and “Hello,” which gave her a third bonus saying—“good-bye.” She learned them and there were many occasions when she used her three sayings with great pride. She always smiled slyly when saying them, as if she was secretly fooling the Italians into thinking that she was a native. I got a big kick out of that.

I called her last night to let her know that I was safely back in Alabama and while the phone was ringing I thought I’d have a little fun with a game we sometimes play on the phone, since Rome is in my immediate future. She answered the phone and I started in—

“Ciao, mama. Come stai?”     

“Ciao, baby.”

Whenever I say “Ciao, mamma. Come stai?” (“Hi, mom. How are you?”) Her reply is always “Ciao, baby.”—sounding like the lollipop-sucking Kojak with his famous line of “Who loves ya, baby?” (http://www.tellysavalas.com/index.php)

“Ciao, baby” always makes me laugh, because the only time she ever calls me “baby” is when she uses it with “ciao.” Also, it is only when we play this game on the phone, never in person, that she gets all Kojak on me. Why she does this, I have no idea, but I roar with laughter every time she says it. Tonight was no different.

It is nice to be home, even if Richard had to go out of town for three days. At least he gave the house a little Halloween atmosphere (the photo is from the outside of our front door looking in through the side-light) by decorating it for my arrival. The whole house is “spook-tacular!” We land in Rome on the 31st, so I’ll be interested to see how the Italians celebrate Halloween, if at all.

Boo~

Mark

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La Parola del Giorno~ the Word of the Day

Disastro~

There are many Italian words whose meanings are obvious to us all. Their spellings are very similar to their English counterparts, which at times makes one believe that learning Italian could be an easy task. Trust me, it's not: however, I will say that it should never stop anyone from trying to learn the language, or any foreign language for that matter. It certainly hasn't stopped me.

“Disastro” means exactly what you think it does—disaster. My Italian-English dictionary (http://www.amazon.com/Bantam-College-Italian-English-Dictionary/dp/0553279475/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1256403736&sr=1-1 ) defines it as “disaster, calamity, wreck.” And nothing could be farther from the truth.

In Viterbo, Nonna used that word all the time. We would be standing in the kitchen over the pasta board and she would say, “Marco, disastro!” when I had made a mess of something. Not that I had ruined it, or set the house on fire, or killed innocent culinary by-standers—it was not that kind of disastro. Mine were usually of the “wreck” variety. Soon we used that word to describe anything that didn’t seem right to us—a poor fashion choice, the search for misplaced car keys, or an opened package of bread crumbs that accidentally got dumped onto the floor.

Now, back home in America, it continues to be a word that is used around the house all the time. I love it because it is one of those words where the very sound of the word itself describes what it is. The word has a good “mouth-feel” about it.

Its uses in conversation:

“Did you see that new building?” “Disastro!”

“Why did he say that in the meeting?” “Disastro!”

“Look at these brown bananas—Disastro!

“Can you believe she wore that to the party?” “Disastro!”

With Halloween quickly approaching and with the weather taking a turn from summer to fall, I thought a picture of an Italian garden-man frieze from northern Lazio ( http://www.parcodeimostri.com/eng/entra.asp ) would be appropriate for this day’s entry. Of course, in Hilton Head the temperature has gone from the 60s earlier in the week back up into the 80s today—“DISASTRO!”

Ciao e a presto~

Mark

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