Beyond the Pasta

         

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Beyond words…

There are times when words alone cannot explain or paint a complete enough description of an object. That is how I feel about the carved AD 2^ndStupefacente! The National Museum of Rome (http://www.reidsguides.com/destinations/europe/italy/lazio/rome/sights/mnr_palazzo_massimo.html ) houses a collection of statuary (marble and bronze), frescoes, and mosaics that is not to be believed. I added a couple of photos of some of the mosaics. century sarcophagus in the photos. It is a battle scene between Romans and Germanic barbarians.

We stumbled upon this museum in 2008 and drooled on the 2^nd floor as we watched them in the process of installing a new corridor of the mosaics exhibit. We had to go back this year and stand in front of what we could only peek at last year. Yes, we drooled again.

The day started with the morning service at All Saints Anglican Church (http://www.allsaintsrome.org/ ), followed by lunch at La Fontanella (http://www.lafontanellaborghese.it/index.php ). We kept lunch simple by only ordering a first and second course, skipping the antipasti. We had the same pasta for our first course (remember in Italy, the first course is the pasta course): Fettuccine alla puntenesca (a pasta made famous by the ladies-of-the-evening who often cooked this simple and quick dish for their late-night clients). For the second course, I had the Pollo alla cacciatore (chicken, hunter-style) and Richard had the Involtini di melanzane di buffala mozzarella (eggplant rolled up with fresh mozzarella chesse in the center). It was a great lunch before heading off to the National Museum of Rome at the Palazzo Massimo.

After the museum, we spent the rest of our second day in Rome wandering through churches and looking forward to our meal at Pierluigi (http://www.pierluigi.it/EN/home_en/index_en.php ). A photographer we met at a recent photo shoot suggested it to us—here is a link to Christopher Baker’s photography in the book Tulipa (http://www.amazon.com/Tulipa-Photographers-Botanical-Willem-Lemmers/dp/1579651224 ). His assistant, Paola—a Roman, suggested Pierluigi, too. There is nothing better than getting a restaurant suggestion directly from a Roman—especially, when you are going to be in Rome.

Pierluigi is somewhat off the beaten track, and although there were other tourists at the tables, most of the tables were occupied by Italians—some were well-dressed businessmen and their clients. The interior is hung with a diverse collection of artwork and at times the clientele was as eclectic as what was hanging on the walls.

Our meal started off with a glass of prosecco, an Italian sparkling white wine. Think of it as the Italian version of champagne, although people into wine will correct me about that. We ordered our way through the menu and, for all of you wine lovers, we ordered a Brunello di Montalcino, Il Marroneto, Madonna della Grazie, 2004 (http://www.ilmarroneto.it/prodotti.php ). 

Our antipasti were: Tartare di melanzane e ricotta di buffala (sliced eggplant with buffalo milk ricotta cheese) and Sautè di cozze (sautéed mussels). Our first course, the pasta course was: Ravioli di pesce di mare (seafood ravioli) and Paccheri con tonno (a thick pasta noodle with tuna). Our second course was: Scallopine con la pepe rosa (Veal scallopine served with pink peppercorns) and Carpaccio di manzo con ruchetta e parmigiano-reggiano (Thinly sliced beef served with arugula and slices of parmigiano-reggiano cheese). If that wasn’t enough, we ordered the carciofi fritti (fried artichokes)—something that is very particular to Rome and to the Jewish ghetto. For dessert, we had a Torta di cioccolato con panna (chocolate tort served with whipped cream) and Carpaccio di ananas ed arancia (thinly slices of pineapple and orange).

We will definitely be returning to the National Museum of Rome at the Palazzo Massimo and Pierluigi has been officially added to our list of favorite Roman restaurants not to be missed.

Ciao e a presto,

Mark

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We’re off on the road to Viterbo~

“Pronto.” Nonna answered the phone this morning when I called the house in Viterbo.

Italians do not say “Hello” or “Good Morning” when they answer the phone—they say “Pronto.” It literally translates as “ready.” Hmmm, that doesn’t seem quite right, but that is how the phone is answered. “Pronto” is only used when answering the phone and never as a written greeting or face-to-face encounter.

The rest of my phone call with her went exactly as it always does when I call. Here is an excerpt (**) from my manuscript (“Beyond the Pasta: 28 Days of Recipes, Language, and Life with an Italian Family”) describing how the conversation goes without fail:

**  “Ciao Nonna. Io Marco in America. Come stai?”

“Marco, ciao, ciao, ciao!! Sono bene, grazie. E tu?”

“Io bene. Bene, bene.”

“Alessandra, Marco è al telefono! Marco è al telefono!!”

Instantly, I am right there with Nonna—she is holding the receiver of the green house phone, sitting in the chair next to the telephone table under the shelving filled with liquor bottles, and shouting upstairs for Alessandra to come down. In the distance, Alessandra is repeatedly yelling, “Marco, Marco” as I hear the second story door open and her shoes clicking down the tiled staircase. Tequilla and Brighitta [the family’s dogs] are never far behind her and at some point, while she descends, they start barking. It is a cacophony of sounds—Alessandra and Nonna taking turns yelling “MARCO, MARCO,” while the dogs howl, growl, and bark until Alessandra arrives, breathless and panting, at the phone.

“Ciao, ciao… ciao… ciao, ciao, Marco!”

I almost weep every time I call because the love coming back at me through the phone is so tangible. **

I wanted to make sure that they were going to be home when Richard and I are in Viterbo—and they are going to be home. To my great delight, Alessandra has invited us to stay with them, since she does not have a student. Besides seeing the family, I need to go back to Viterbo to take a couple of photos for the book. Also, I am going to take video of us with the family to post on the blog when we return. Now that we are going to be staying with them, I hope I can get some video of Nonna and I cooking together. Let’s hope it turns out.

Viterbo wasn’t the only place I called this morning. I made reservations at two restaurants in Rome we have eaten at before (check out the Roman restaurants listed in the Oct 21 entry) and at one new restaurant (http://www.pierluigi.it/index.php) that was recommended to us by an Italian woman who was working at Richard’s photo shoot as the assistant to the photographer. I went up and crashed the shoot for dinner on Wednesday night, and it was a great opportunity to brush up my Italian before we leave this Friday. She was impressed that I knew as much as I do, considering I have really only had one month of lessons—4 years ago. I really think she was just being kind and supportive, as most Italians are when you attempt to speak their language.

Susan Ferrier was the interior designer of the home and her work was truly inspired and beautiful. (http://www.mcalpineboothferrier.com/index.cfm)

Christopher Baker was the photographer at the shoot and he also recommended a couple of restaurants in Rome and gave some insightful tips into Venice. I am looking forward to seeing how those pan out—and then I’ll pass them along. Over dinner we discussed my book and he had some great pointers about the process of getting published. He has worked on over 13 books and one of his many projects, in particular, sounded really interesting. He traveled to Holland and spent months photographing and interviewing some of the world’s leading authorities on tulips. His book about that journey sounded incredible and I truly want to check it out.(http://www.amazon.com/Tulipa-Photographers-Botanical-Christopher-Baker/dp/B00006K13J/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpi_1) 

It is amazing how Richard and I ran into people in the middle of the Alabama countryside who were passionate about recommending restaurants and travel tips in Italia. We always seem to have people like that drop into our lives—people who have experienced a thing that Richard and I are about to go do. 

While we are in Italy, I am going to try to continue to post on this blog—hopefully, including photos, too. I guess we’ll see how well this blogsite’s formatting works via e-mail and cell phone from Italy.

My next post should be from Italy!

Ciao e a presto~

Mark  

(**the photo is of the official crest of the city of Viterbo from above the entrance into City Hall—the lion and the palm symbolize Viterbo. http://www.viterboonline.com/ )

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When in Rome...

In a little more than a week, we will be in Rome and, although there are many reasons to be excited about going to Rome, the one thing that I look forward to the most is EATING in Rome. For me, the excitement of eating in Rome is more than the meal itself. It is the hunt for a ristorante--restaurant--tucked out of the way enough that we end up being the only Americans in the place.

I am not exactly sure why I enjoy that feeling, maybe it is the notion of being secluded by one's own language (although it seems that just about everyone in Rome speaks English). If we find a restaurant where the host or proprietress does not speak English, then I really feel like we have discovered a hidden treasure. It forces me to use my Italian--infantile as it is--and it also adds to the "flavor" of being in a foreign land and enjoying the local cuisine.

Here are some of our favorite ristoranti in Rome. Ristoranti so cherished that just by mentioning their names I grin wide--and salivate. Each of these ristoranti has a completely unique feel, some are more upscale (true ristorante), while others are more working class (trattoria) and one is a wine bar (enoteca). We have favorite dishes at some of these ristoranti and I will try to mention the dishes we look forward to eating there. These establishments don't have websites, but I have no doubt you can hunt online and find reviews and more information.

Here's the list:

Trattoria da Settimio all'Arancio
Via dell'Arancio, 50
*wonderful fresh gnocchi in a basil cream sauce.

La Carbonara
Piazza Campo dei Fiori, 23
*the photo above is of their antipasti buffet as you first walk into the restaurant. It is a definite must have.

Hosteria Cannavota
Piazza San Giovani in Laterno, 20
*Enjoyed a plate of wonderfully spicy linguine with langoustine.

Enoteca Corsi
Via del Gesu'
*a wonderful place in the neighborhood surrounding the Pantheon to stop and enjoy a great glass of wine and some simple family dishes.

Osertia dell'Angelo
Via G. Bettola, 24
*north of the Vatican and tucked away in the Prati neighborhood is this rustic gem of a place. It is very old, rather rundown, and very good. I have never enjoyed rabbit more than at this restaurant. The entire meal was simple and truly amazing. I wonder whose nonna they have chained to the stove in the kitchen. It was that good.

Ristorante Monserrato
Via di Monserrato, 96
*Simple but well-appointed, their food is very good, but the reason we love it so much is for their sgroppino--a drink made with prosecco, vodka, and lemon gelato. Wow!

Siciliainbocca
Via Emilio Faa' di Bruno, 26   www.siciliainboccaweb.com
*This trattoria is tucked deep into the Prati neighborhood. They specialize in seafood--they are a Sicilian trattoria after all. I had the most sublime cold seafood salad of baby octopus, squid, and scallops in a tangy lime vinegrette. A+

Buonissimi!

Mark

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